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At Camp Chopunnish: Patience, Patience

By: Phil Scriver, LC200 Historian

With camp now established the Expedition settled in to wait for spring to come to the Rocky Mountains and melt the snow that blocked their trail. The Camp was as close to the mountains as they could get but not be in the snow and cold weather. Lewis wrote in his journal for May 15th that they were living in three different climates; on the river bottom where they were camped it was hot like summer, but on the high plains above where they hunted for food it was still early spring. Just beyond those plains were the Rockies that were still locked in winter. All this in twenty miles distance.

The Captains set two priorities during the first days in camp. Hunters were sent out to start building up a supply of meat for use when it came time to cross the mountains; the memories of near starvation while crossing them “September last” were too fresh to be repeated. The men not out hunting worked to make shelters to protect men and baggage from the weather. All of the canvas and the leather teepee had worn and rotted beyond use, so shelter had to be made from willows and woven grass in the Indian way.

The hunters’ first days brought mixed results. They killed three bears, two grizzlies and one black bear, which was good since they now had fresh meat to eat and bear oil for may uses. But the hunters noted considerable evidence of other bear activities that had chased the other game animals out of the area. A few bear were not going to be enough to replace the deer and elk the Expedition needed for food while at camp and while crossing the Rockies.

Successfully killing the grizzlies made a big impression on the Nez Perce. They were poorly equipped to hunt grizzlies and greatly admired someone who could kill one, placing that feat equal to killing two enemies in battle. John Collins had killed both the grizzlies so he was quite special to the Indians. Lewis presented the grizzly claws to one of the four main chiefs, Red Grizzly.

The bear meat didn’t last very long—just one meal as the Expedition and many Indians joined in a victory feast. This whole bear episode created a strong bond between the Expedition and the many Nez Perce tribes. The co-operation between these groups during the following weeks grew as a result.

The Expedition had situated their camp near the Clearwater River on a high plain that extended about five miles to Lolo Creek (Lewis named it Collins Creek). The hunters soon discovered the bear activity had driven most of the game across this creek to another high plain. Hunting any closer to camp brought little or no success so hunting parties had to go out for two or three days at a time, crossing many creeks that were made extra difficult from the high waters of the melting snow. The result was some days there was plenty of meat while other days there was none. Lewis determined they must supplement the meat the hunters got with roots and fish they could trade from the Indians. Although the spring salmon run hadn’t reached them, it was starting further downriver.

The Expedition was successful in getting a good supply of roots by trading the remaining items they had available and by administering medical treatments. Lewis commented “our skill as physicians and the virtue of our medicine has spread a great distance.” Although there were encouraging signs early on, the Expedition finally gave up on getting a supply of salmon; they were just too early in the season.

During this time there were several instances when the mutual acceptance and trust between the Nez Perce and the Expedition became apparent. Most medical treatments were freely given without any payments in return; several times the groups teamed up for a successful hunt; food was generously given between the groups numerous times; Groups of Indians visited the Expedition’s camp freely as did Expedition members visit Indian camps. Everyone’s conduct seemed to be without regard for any threat the other group may pose.

During the time the Expedition waited at Camp Chopunnish there were three primary medical cases they had to deal with. While Sacajawea’s son, Pomp, was in the midst of teething, his jaw and neck became severely swollen and he developed a high fever. The Captains treated him with poltices and cream of tartar, eventually bringing down the fever and relieving the swelling. Medical people today speculate Pomp had a case of mumps.

Bratton was again having terrible problems with his lower back just like he had during the winter at Fort Clatsop. He was unable to walk and could only sit upright by enduring great pain. Finally Shields suggested to the Captains that they use a sweat bath on Bratton. He had seen that treatment used successfully before. The Captains agreed and had the bath prepared. This treatment which is a series of heat then cold treatments worked so well Bratton totally recovered.

The third medical case was an old Indian Chief who exhibited no signs of sickness, but did not have any use of his arms or legs. Clark had treated him the fall before at Broken Arm’s village which had helped some for a while. When the old Chief was brought to the Captains for help they decided a sweat bath was worth a try. After several such treatments the old Chief regained full use of his arms and legs for the first time in three years.

During the time spent waiting for the snow in the mountains to melt, Lewis became quite impatient to get on the march to the Missouri River. To control that impatience he had to keep telling himself to be patient and listen to the wise council given by the Indians. He also occupied his time writing detailed descriptions of several birds and animals he had made only brief descriptions of earlier.

Finally, with the game almost gone from the area Lewis compromised, agreeing to move camp north across Lolo Creek onto the Weippe Prairies where game was readily available. When he first learned the Indians had sent runners across the Rockies to the Flatheads who were wintering at Travelers Rest he was certain the Expedition could also successfully make the trip. But he agreed to wait two more weeks at the new camp.

On June 10, 1806 The Expedition left Camp Chopunnish for their new camp on the Weippe Prairie where they would lay in a supply of meat before starting over the Rockies. They had 65 horses and an ample supply of bread and roots. All they needed was the meat the hunters would supply.

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